Friday, August 12, 2011

Rehab

            Seven weeks ago in mid June, I tore my meniscus. Just prior to this injury, I had taken 2 weeks off to help my nagging, sore forearm tendons heal. I came back with fresh tendons, but that was quickly forgotten when I made a simple high step. I was climbing a route when I made a high step with my left foot, then heard a pop as I pushed off. I really did not think much of it. My joints pop all the time. It was not until I tried to stand up when I realized that something was wrong. I iced the knee and headed home. The next day I head to my orthopedic to see what was really wrong. I was told then it was most likely a torn meniscus. They also said that it most likely would be a tear that could be cut out, and I would be back in 3 weeks. Yet they also gave a worst case scenario of 12 weeks if they needed to repair it. He did the  MRI and I patiently waited for the results. The results came back an hour later, and unfortunately it was the worst case scenario.
            I really was optimistic about the situation, so the devastation hit me pretty hard. Nationals gone. World Championships gone. Six weeks in Europe gone. Youth Worlds gone. It sure was a lot to lose, but my optimism came back quickly. I looked at it as just another bump in the road. Sometimes hardships happen, and you really cannot do much about it. The surgery went well the next day. I really did not remember much of it since I was knocked out as soon as I got to the hospital. The next few days were spent between my bed, the bathroom, and the couch. I had an allergic reaction to the Dura Prep that they used to clean my leg before the surgery, and I broke out all over my leg. The allergic reaction really was the hardest thing about this whole predicament. The reaction lasted a grueling 2 weeks. Since then, the rehab has been somewhat easy going. I got off my crutches 3 weeks after the surgery. That is also the time that I really started my rehab. I began to swim, bike, walk, and do physical therapy. Luckily my aunt helped me come up with a therapy routine. I even began to climb one footed. Now,  seven weeks later I am walking without a brace and am cleared to climb tentatively with both feet. My orthopedic said my rehab is way ahead of schedule, and he seemed to be very impressed. We discussed if I could climb in the Youth World Championships in late August. He cleared me to go, but he said I would not be 100% and the intense training and competition would really endanger my knee. At the moment I am leaning towards not going. I really do not want to take another step back, and with that in mind, going to Austria really would not be in my best interest. Most of all, I would also  miss my first week of college at Colorado Sate.
            I really have gotten the opportunity to experience things that I would have missed out on. I got to spend more time with the people closest to me. I have been blessed to have many supporters through this time from my girlfriend and my family and friends. I have gotten to help at a foster home, spend time with family and friends, and I even rescued at stray kitten with my mother. The time spent at home has really been a blessing.
I am very optimistic about climbing for the end of 2011 and 2012. I always seem to come back from injuries stronger than ever. I also will have a copious amount of climbing and motivation as I move to Colorado. I really want to enjoy outdoor climbing.  Living in North Texas, the outdoor climbing opportunities are not plentiful, but I'm moving to Colorado primarily for an education. I intend on pursuing my higher education with devotion. I am majoring in business with concentrations in finance and marketing. Like I said earlier, my knee is just another bump in the road, and I am moving quickly over the bump with great anticipation and optimism towards what lies ahead.

These are some pictures of me as I was going through the rehab process.








Photos by Claire Edwards

Gear Review


The Petzl Grigri 2
            Petzl has done it again! This item exceeds all the hype. The size, weight, and performance are all significantly improved from the first Grigri. When I first got the Grigri 2 it was in a somewhat large box, and I thought that the box was empty. Come to find out, the new Grigri seemed to be as light as the cardboard box. The Grigri 2 weighs in at 5.9 ounces, and the Grigri 2 is 20 percent lighter and 25 percent smaller than the original Grigri. The size is not the only change. This new device handles better, feeds better, brakes quicker, and lowers much easier. I climb with the Xion 10.1 and the Fuse 9.4 ropes. The Grigri 2 takes both ropes very well. With my old Grigri, the 9.4 used to slip a little, but the new Grigri has no problem with the thin rope. As for the Xion, the fatter rope slides in out of the device like a charm. You cannot go wrong with the new Grigri 2. It is hands down the best belay device I have ever used, and the original Grigri comes in right after its over achieving little brother.


The Petzl Xion 10.1 rope
            I was pretty skeptical at first when Petzl sent me the rope. I was thinking I could use it for some projects and save some use on my Fuse rope. I was wrong. This rope handles better than most 9.8 ropes. Petzl really got it right when it comes to mixing durability and exceptional handling. I use this rope all the time. It feels great and I do not have to worry about taking lots of big falls on it. The durability has really stood the test. I have had the rope for around 3 months, using almost every week in the gym and some outdoors, and I have seen very little wear and tear on the rope. Another cool thing about this rope is that all Petzl ropes coiled in a way that you can cut the plastic and use it right then and there with out having to flake it out. If you are looking for a rope that is durable, but you are not willing to compromise performance, this is the rope to buy.

prAna Stretch Zion Pant
            These pants are no ordinary pants. These pants allow you climb with out having to go through all the hardships that come with climbing in pants. They stretch, breathe, and outperform any climbing pants I have ever known. These pants are also loaded with many other features. They have plenty of pockets and have snaps at the bottom to help you roll up the pants. These pants are great for any weather you run into. I have climbed in them in Texas 90 degree weather and in the cold Colorado winter. They go easy with layers for the cold and roll up and breathe in the heat. I recommend these pants to anyone who wants an all year pant option. These are my favorite prAna product.

prAna Snakebite ¼ zip
            This is another must have product for all weather climbing. Wear it on the cool morning hike and shed it before you hit the rock. Use it as a great layering item for those cold days at the crag. I even climb in this when the cold is just too much. It breaks the wind and stretches very nicely for any activity. I also love to wear this when I am not climbing. It is nice but also has an active lifestyle look to it. I really use the Snakebite all the time. I don't know what I would do if I didn't have this pullover.